Climate change, over-dependence on limit
fossil-fuels for energy generation, over depletion of world’s natural
resources, and excessive production and consumption are among the biggest
environmental challenges of the 21st century. Meanwhile, nanotechnology is one
of the key technologies for the 21st century, with its broader applications,
nanotechnology would be great attraction to governments and business sectors
with a better and sustainable ecosystem and livelihood future.
Our team would like to focus on
environmental applications of nanotechnology to efficiently create and use
energy, improve water purification, reduce air pollution and construct
eco-friendly spaces to solve vital worldwide challenges.
The growing attention of nanotechnology application in
renewable energy is the most latest worldwide topic. This new emerging
technology provides great potential in energy efficient enhancement
economically and environmentally. It is believe that nanotechnology can indeed
caters the current and future sustainable energy needs and further tackles the
world energy challenges.
Nanotechnology considerably impacts in all energy
sectors for enhancing the efficient in energy conversion, reducing energy
losses during distribution, improving utilization in energy storage as well as
performing sustainability in energy supply and usage. Other than given the
efficient improvement, this “green” and “clean” technology application
optimizes the availability in energy production and leverages the economics
concerns added with environmental benefits.
Nanotechnology could aid in the
development of low-cost, high-performance water treatment systems as well as
instant and continuous ways to monitor water quality in both developing (e.g.
serious shortage of clean water in South Africa) and developed (e.g. removal of
heavy metals from industrial wastewater in China) countries.
Our team would like to address the global
opportunities and potential risks of nanotechnology water disinfection, treatment
& purification technologies all related stakeholders e.g., end-users, water
development experts, governments, nongovernmental organizations, companies,
universities and international institutions. Despite desirable benefits of
nanotechnology in water treatment, health/safety issues, law/regulation and
socio-economic concerns related to this emerging technology should also be
deeply considered.
Nanotechnology is considered to be an
effective silver bullet in tackling air pollution. European Union has even
contributed US$4.8 million for a nanotechnology project allowing people to
monitor and control air quality at low cost as air pollution is considered as
the most dangerous environmental risk affecting human health and intervening ecosystem
- According to World Health Organization, an estimated of seven million people
died because of air pollution in 2012; whilst scientists found that toxic
pollutants have led to a 50% drop in crop yields in India comparing to 1980 due
to serious air pollution.
Our study will discuss how nanotechnology
can serve as an effective measure in tackling air pollution from the detection,
prevention and reduction of problem. In spite of the benefits offered,
uncertainty and unknown risk imposed by this breakthrough technology are not
confirmed yet and it will also be covered as part of our analysis.
Nanotechnology offers much in construction
sector to move in the sustainable future. Green construction can definitely
grab the attention in global perspective. Applications of nanotechnology
in improving durability and enhancing performance of construction components,
increasing energy efficiency and safety of the buildings as well as living
comfort, those are the mainstream of green construction study.
Through investigation of its best
practices, opportunities and threats, environmental, political and economic
advantages and disadvantage, we may project an environmental friendly living
space will be made possible.
Conclusion
No doubt that nanotechnology has deeply penetrated in
our life. Meanwhile, human being is facing with an critical agenda to save our
planet. Rapid development and applications of green nanotechnology has provided
options to create a cleaner and better future. Holistic analysis will be made
to address the role of industrial players in protecting the environment from
the potential impacts of nanotechnologies in the said four industries.
Global cosmetic retail sales figure is keeping its upward trend. The report from Marketandmarkets (n.a.) forecasted global cosmetics market value worths $635.7B in 2019. To be a winner, company have to dig in product innovation and ensure strategic fit for adapting the fast developed market demand and change. Nowadays, the global trend in the cosmetic industry is still in the stage where players foucs on 'medicinally' active cosmetics development. Cosmeceutical products are then taken advantage of an opportunity to bloom in the market. It is not a new story to tell that cosmetics industry has widely adopted nanotechnology in R&D. Even the world largest cosmetics company L’oreal devoted big money to obtain patents in nanotechnology. What does it imply for? According to Hove (2014), to transform the company to become more innovative and create a culture of continuous innovation that enables strategic renewal - Clear purpose of innovation or creativity, make it happens and stick in company are the key factors to become the champion in this keen competitive industry. Let’s have a ride inside this small world.
How this SMALL thing changed the world?
Nanotechnology is the innovative science and technology conducted at the nanoscale, which is about 1 to 100 nanometers.
Can’t imagine how small is “nano”?
In the International System of Units, the prefix "nano" means one-billionth, or 10-9; therefore one nanometer is one-billionth of a meter.
Indeed, nanotechnology involve the ability to see and to control individual atoms and molecules and everything on Earth is made up of atoms—the food we eat, the clothes we wear, the buildings and houses we live in, and our own bodies.
The laughers in NANO revolution
Franchina,
Cosmetics Europe president stated that “Nanotechnology are one of the most
active, and probably in the future will be one the most successful elements
that can allows cosmetics to be absolutely effective” (Yeomans. M, 2012). The
most frequently usage of nanotechnology in cosmetics industry is application of
nanoparticles, especially for sunscreen, moisturizing and antiaging products. “Nano” - a magic word, which can draw
people attention to and believe on the beauty products which incorporated with this word.
The latest innovation of nanotechnology brings a new
breakthrough in the personal care as well as cosmetics industry. Such emerging
new technologies of nanotechnology in cosmeceutical preparations better
improved the functionality of the products on the biological level. It
increases the active ingredients and aesthetic appeal of cosmeceutical products
with prolonged effects.
Nanotechnology in cosmetics
Since the first nanomertic cosmetic products developed at
Shiseido in Japan 1991, Lancôme then adopted such new technology as essential
in 1999. Afterwards, lots of cosmetic brands followed the new trend and come up
with nanoformulations such as Chanel (Solution Destressante Precision) and La
Prairie (Cure Intensive Aux Extraits de Caviar).
From traditional to NANO
Chemical
ingredients such as Zinc oxide (ZnO), titanium dioxide (TiO2),
Liposomes and noisome are used in various cosmeceutical products such as
sunscreens, moisturizers and anti-aging products. Beneficial from the advanced
nanotechnology, the “Nano-version” of these chemical ingredients, known as
nanoparticles, delivers a better performance in formulation, delivery and
penetration.
The
application of nanotechnologies enhanced the functionality and aesthetic appeal
of various cosmeceutical products. For example in the sunscreens, unlike the
traditional white thick sticky appeal, nanoparticles form a better UV filters
and improve the aesthetic appeal with less greasy and smelly. With finer
structure, nanoparticles can better transport the beneficial compounds deep
into the skin in high concentrations.
Solid lipid nanoparticle
Delivery and penetration enhancer
Nanotechnology
brings the possibility to tailor the essential structures of materials at the
nanoscale for achieving specific functions. From the perspective of manufacturers,
by controlling shape and size at the nanometer scale, companies can optimize
the manufacturing conditions for skincare formulation and the components
transfer so as to improve functionality and durability of their products.
The tears behind the innovative
science
Despite the great enhancement of nanotechnologies, the potential unintended consequences to human health and the environment are yet to be studied and discovered.
With the high penetration and prolonged effects of
nanoparticles used in cosmeceutical formulations, long-term effects of the
chemicals being generated in the skin cells are still uncertain.
Researches and studies are conducted to study the risks and
the negative effect of nanotechnology applied in cosmeceutical products.
Different researches showed that using the cosmeceutical products with
Nanoparticles on skin can have toxic effects if reaching to blood stream and
can produce free radicals and cause cell toxicity when exposed to UV light.
Besides, nanoparticles are also concerning for contaminate water and create
harmful impact to the environment.
In order to monitor and evaluate the side effects, U.S. Food
and Drug Administration published the first draft guideline in 2011, then
published two new draft guidelines in Apr 2012 for manufacturers of food
substances and cosmetics. Also, starting from 11 July 2013, all ingredients
present as nanomaterials have to be indicated on the package with the term ‘Nano’
in brackets under EU cosmetic regulation. Indeed, the safety issues of
nanotechnology application in cosmetic products is constantly under review by
different regulatory bodies worldwide.
In view of such breakthrough, innovative companies would compete
to take the first-dip advantage to incorporate such emerging technology in
their cosmetics products. Beneficial of small and fine nanoparticles with high penetration,
products can be greatly enhanced and promoted. Nevertheless, these tiny
nanoparticles also can slip through skin layers and potentially interact with
immune system and bloodstream, and possibly become toxic and damage issues,
such side effects are still under investigations.
On one hand, the application of nanotechnology enhances the
efficacy of cosmeceutical products for consumers’ benefits. But on the other
hand, the risk of such incorporation may create potential hazards to human
health and environment. Undoubtedly, it would be an importance topic for
scientists and companies to seek for the balance in between for maximizing the
benefits and minimizing the negative impact when implementing this advanced
technology on their products.
Opportunity: Analysis on the multi-billion dollar
cosmeceutical market
Figure 1
Figure 2
From
figure 1 & 2 which shown that he market size for general cosmetics
projected to increase by 25% from 2012 to 2017 while cosmeceuticals will
increase by more than 46% from 2012 to 2017 reaching $47 billion, making
cosmeceuticals one of the most dynamic sectors within the cosmetics and
personal care markets.
Figure 3
The desire to maintain a youthful image combined with the
affluent women population in these countries and rising employment rate amongst
women segment of the population. Furthermore, the market share of men’s
cosmeceutical products is starting to be significant, the first major wave of
men’s skin care products appeared in the mid-1990s and men are no longer embarrassed
to shop for creams or show their desire to look young.
The generations X & Z are more opened to the use of
cosmeceutical products than older generation, therefore, the cosmetic companies
would target the age group of 15 years to 40 years, especially people within
this age group want to be more attractive and are more conscious for their
looks. The future of cosmeceutical products in an emerging global market is
likely to showcase favorable growth.
The cosmeceutical industry is based on the development and
marketing of products that lie between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Today,
there are over 400 suppliers and manufacturers of cosmeceutical products, and
the industry is estimated to grow by 7.4% by 2012.
According to the article “Nanoparticles found in 10 top
brand cosmetics” (Dec 2009) has found nanoparticles in foundations and
concealers sold by 10 top name brands including Clinique, Clarins, L’Oréal,
Revlon, The Body Shop, Max Factor, Lancôme Paris, By Terry, Yves Saint Laurent
and Christian Dior.
• Concealers, foundations and mineral foundations sold by 8
leading brands contained particles measuring less than 100nm in size (Clinique,
Clarins, L’Oréal, Revlon, The Body Shop, Max Factor, Lancôme Paris and By
Terry)
• A further 2 products contained particles that measured
100nm (Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior)
The future for beauty-from-within functional cosmetics that
offer multifunctional benefits in area of anti-oxidant cellular protection and
skin health with delaying, defying and anti-aging properties which would be
great business potential for various cosmetic giants to develop cosmetics with
science behind the use of nanotechnology.
Pitfall
in the adoption of nanotechnology in skin care industry
The use of nanomaterials in cosmetic dermatology is the
subject of
lGrowing public concerns around
the health and environmental risks of using nano-ingredients in sunscreen and
cosmetics.
nKeen discussions on the safety
of nanomaterials in cosmetic dermatology indicates that some risks are
inevitable, although conventional toxicological methodologies are not adequate
to assess their safety
nThe leader of CSIRO’s
Nanosafety group has warned that in a worst-case scenario, nano-ingredients in
sunscreens could cause skin cancer
lEfforts to establish
fundamental rules for use of nanotechnology in skin care product
lRisk assessment are ongoing
throughout universities, government laboratories and industry
lThe need for legislation that
includes a more comprehensive science-based definition of nanomaterials,
together with a clear assignment of liability to producers and employers
arising from the use of nanomaterials, through all routes of exposure (such as
inhalation and the skin)
lPromotion on integrated, safe
and responsible nanoscience and nanotechnology research for the benefit of
society as a whole
nlabelling clear ingredients
that people can have their choice to opt for nano-free skin care product
It involves a trade-off between
benefit on cosmeceutical product for skin rejuvenation and risk on influencing
the skin’s biological function, relevant companies should conduct more
sophisticate research to ensure the safety level of product besides only focus
on developing new anti-aging science and technique.
L’Oreal
- The Trendsetter
L’Oreal
is a well-known French cosmetics and beauty company founded by scientist Eugene
Schueller in 1909. The group owns 32 international brands, and sells products
to customers in 130 countries with a revenue of EUR 23 billion in year 2013.
As a trendsetter who is steadfast in its focus of
innovation and enthusiastic in all new ideas and disruptive technology
development. It has been faciliated through strategic alliance and partnership
with industrial experts.
L’Oreal teamed up with Organovo to produce 3D
bio-printed human skin tissues, and nanofibre in 3D design has also attracted
tissue engineers to dig into. These technologies are allowing L’Oreal to
reliably test topical products for human use without the need for animal
testing and testing toxicity of skincare products since October 2014
(“Our 3D,” 2015 & Utroske, 2014).
It
is also keen on explore innovation intelligence in academic platforms through
the collaboration with selected universities. E.g.
> worked with Standford University for the discovery of probiotic for skin (CNW, 2007) > worked with Zayed University for “For Women
in Science Program” (Zayed University, 2014) > worked with Hong Kong University Pasteur
Research Centre for the launch of “L’Oreal Research Scholarship” (HKU Pasteur
Research Centre, 2012)
All
the partnerships contribute to the development of scientific research by
encouraging the exchanges of ideas and nurturing scentists who aspire to pursue
their career in this specific area. L’Oreal’s
attitude has nurtured a culture for innovation and continual learning.
French Beauty Giant
The
group upholds its vision– “Together
we will make beauty sustainable. Together we will make sustainability
beautiful”. To accomplish this ultimate goal, all members implement its mission
- “Provide the best in cosmetics innovation to everyone around the world” by leveraging its expertise in innovation
and strategic acquisition to offer
the best cosmetics to its customers all over the world.
Norm
of Innovation
The Dynasty of Acquisitions
The beauty giant owns as many as 32 international
brands as of 2014, but only 3 of them were created by L’Oreal itself (L’Oreal
2013). This strategic approach has successfully expanded its boundaries of
expertise, diversified the group’s portfolio, enriched its customer base, and
captured revenues for its sustainable growth. The acquired companies would be
be included as part of the L’Oreal’s network of international research and
innovation aiming at the same goal with all other L’Oreal group members. The
acquisition of Pureoloy, which used nanotechnology for the production of
professional hair products, in 2007 has not only generated 14% of the total
revenue ot the group, but more importantly, it has contributed to L’Oreal’s
study and investigation on nanotechnology (Bidness Etc, n.d.). Strategic
acquistion thus serves as a key element compiling an all-rounded R&D system
of the group.
Nanotechnology is praised to be the future of
cosmetics industry, and L’Oreal’s as the trendsetter has been devoting itself
to scientific research and prides itself as the pioneer in the area of
nanotechnology development - it is the top nanotechnology patent-holder in the
United States (wiki, n.d.).It is also a
founding member of International Council on Nanotechnology and participant of
the NANOINTERACT Project of the European Union studying the interactions
between nanotechnologies and human living world (L’Oreal – Sustainability
Factsheet, 2010).
As nanotechnology as one of the numerous
disruptive technologies and research areas focused by the company, it is one of
the driving forces encouraging the significant expenditure in the R&D area
– L’Oreal’s budget allocated to research and innovation has been significantly
increasing from EUR 680 million in 2012 to EUR 761 million in 2014. With its
strategic planning and positioning in the research and innovation expertise,
the group has successfully registered 551 patents in 2012, 564 in 2013 and 501
in 2014.
“The top priority of L’Oreal Research is to prove
scientific benefit and to guarantee safety”, says L’Oreal (L’Oreal –
Sustainability Factsheet, 2010). To ensure product safety, the L’Oreal Group
has been using cosmeto-vigilance – a cosmetic-testing system since 1970. To
nurture the development and accelerate the application of the emerging
technology, satellite production facilities and equipment have been installed,
and an experimental model of eco-toxicity was developed by L’Oreal to test
nanomaterial.
Baby Born
With the tremendous efforts of its research and innovation team in collaborating its basic scientific research together with the emerging nanotechnology, L’Oreal introduced its first nanoproduct – an anti-wrinkle cream in 1998 (Kaur and Agrawal, 2007). The nanotechnology allows the vitamin A to be stored in a 200-nanometer capsule and released when the outer shell dissolves under user’s skin (Paull 2003). Till 2006, the industry leader ranked 6th in nanotechnology patents holders in the U.S.
Cosmetics
industry is built and developed on the fundamental of innovation, and
sustainable innovation is the crucial element determining the success of each
industry player. But does it mean that L’Oreal has adopted the perfect
strategic approach?
L’Oreal’s
core competence can be identified through value chain analysis and
resource-based view:
It
is realized that core competence of the L’Oreal Group lies on its capability in
“strategic acquisition and management of international cosmetic brands” and
“innovation and emerging innovation management”. L’Oreal’s strategic approach in
acquisition and delegation in innovation equips the beauty group with
sustainable competitive advantages and sustains business growth.
New
value and new market, what’s more? The perfect strategic approach!
L’Oreal’s
first-ever nanoproduct debuting in 1998 successfully captured the market for
anti-aging product as the newly created value performed better in ways that
mainstream customers already valued. The
open mindedness and all-about innovation approach allow the beauty giant in
identify new value through its engagement in the diversified laboratory test
collaborating its existing technologies with the emerging nanotechnology –
L’Oreal’s first nanoproduct was launched after experimenting 350 formulas and
testing for more than 2,500 times.
With
its strategic approach, the L’Oreal group is confident in responding to the
needs of diversified markets. There are 18 research centers worldwide being
organized into 6 poles in Europe, U.S., Japan, China, India and Brazil. It
allows the beauty group to stay closer with its customers, understand their
needs and identify unexplored markets. L’Oreal has announced its ambition to
add another 1 billion new customers to its existing patron base by the year
2020.
Conclusion: It's a world of hopes
but also a world of fears
Cosmetics industry always welcomes emerging technology-based
ideas like nanotechnology. In company
point of view, high profitability and strong consumer demand might sometimes
cover the dark side of its adoption.
Lighten up the dark through continuous R&D and global regulation may
increase consumer confidence in nanotech safety. Echo to what Hove stated at
the beginning, emerging technology management should be the additional factor
for the company to win the game.
S. Arora, J. M. Rajwade,
and K. M. Paknikar. (2012). Nanotoxicology
and in vitro studies: the need of the hour. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology. vol. 258, no. 2, pp. 151–165.
Berger, I.W. (2008,
August 22). The Challenges of Innovation. Bloomberg Business.
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K. Takeda, K.-I. Suzuki, A. Ishihara et al.,(2009). Nanoparticles transferred from pregnant mice to their offspring can damage the genital and cranial nerve systems. Journal of Health Science. vol. 55, no. 1, pp. 95–102.
Team, T. (2015, February 11). Luxury Cosmetics & Acquisitions To Fuel L’Oreal’s Q4 Sales; But
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